A guide to Rome’s Jewish Ghetto
Ancient ruins, a silver dome, cobbled lanes and some of the best food in Rome, all within a few minutes’ walk. This is our own neighbourhood, and here is how we would spend a day in it.
The Jewish Ghetto is one of the oldest and most fascinating parts of Rome’s historic centre. Jews have lived in Rome for more than two thousand years, which makes this one of the oldest Jewish communities in Europe. The Ghetto itself was created in 1555 and lasted until 1870. Today it is a lively, welcoming neighbourhood of restaurants, bakeries and small shops, and it sits beside some of the city’s most beautiful sights.
A short walk through the Ghetto
Portico d’Ottavia
Begin at the ancient portico, built under Emperor Augustus and dedicated to his sister Octavia. It marks the entrance to the neighbourhood, and the street named after it is lined with restaurants and bakeries. Our apartment is less than a minute away.
The Great Synagogue and the Jewish Museum
The Great Synagogue of Rome (Tempio Maggiore), completed in 1904, is easy to recognise by its square aluminium dome, which you can spot from all around the neighbourhood. The Jewish Museum of Rome, in the same building, tells the story of the city’s Jewish community from antiquity to today. Please check the opening times and visiting rules before you go. Visiting for the holidays? See the 2027 holiday dates and services.
Piazza Mattei and the Turtle Fountain
A few minutes’ walk away, a quiet little square hides one of Rome’s most charming fountains, the Fontana delle Tartarughe. It dates from the late sixteenth century, and the bronze turtles were added in the following century and are often attributed to Bernini. It is a lovely place for a photograph.
Palazzo Mattei di Giove
Right beside the square stands Palazzo Mattei di Giove, also known as Palazzo Caetani. It was built between 1598 and 1618 for Asdrubale Mattei, Marquis of Giove, to a design by Carlo Maderno, and Caravaggio is recorded as living there in 1601. The arcaded courtyard, lined with classical statues, is open to the public, free of charge, from 9:00 to 17:00. Today the palazzo is a cultural centre that hosts several organisations, including the Center for American Studies.
A moment to remember
In the small Largo 16 Ottobre 1943 a plaque recalls the day more than a thousand Roman Jews were deported. It is a quiet place, and a thoughtful stop on any walk through the Ghetto.
Teatro di Marcello and the Tiber Island
Continue to the ancient theatre, which looks like a smaller Colosseum, and cross the bridge to the small island in the middle of the Tiber.
Campo de’ Fiori and beyond
From here, Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Navona, the Pantheon and Trastevere are all a pleasant walk away.
Where to eat in the Ghetto
Roman-Jewish cooking is a cuisine of its own. The classic dish is carciofi alla giudia, artichokes fried until golden and crisp like a flower. Here are our favourite places.
Our Kosher Selection
Kosher dining and a bakery within a short walk of the apartment.
- Ba’Ghetto – a restaurant on the main street of the Ghetto, serving Roman-Jewish and kosher cooking.
- BellaCarne (Kosher Delight) – a kosher restaurant, part of the Kosher Delight line.
- Renato al Ghetto – a kosher restaurant in the heart of the neighbourhood, and a favourite of ours.
- Pasticceria Boccione – the famous kosher bakery. Try the ricotta and sour cherry tart and the dense, rich “pizza ebraica”.
Some kosher restaurants and shops close for Shabbat, from Friday afternoon until Saturday evening, and on Jewish holidays.
Good to know
- Plan on half a day for the Ghetto, longer if you visit the museum and the synagogue.
- Dress modestly and bring photo identification when visiting the synagogue.
- The Ghetto is quieter on Friday evening and Saturday, which can be a lovely time to wander.
Questions
Is the Jewish Ghetto worth visiting?
Yes. It is one of the most atmospheric and historic parts of Rome, with ancient Roman ruins, the Great Synagogue, a museum, cobbled lanes and some of the city’s best Roman-Jewish food, all within a few minutes’ walk of one another.
How much time do I need?
Half a day is enough for a relaxed walk, a museum visit and a meal. Add an extra hour for Piazza Mattei and the Turtle Fountain.
Are restaurants and shops open on Saturday?
Some kosher restaurants and shops close for Shabbat, from Friday afternoon until Saturday evening, and on Jewish holidays. Many other places stay open.
Where is the Turtle Fountain?
The Fontana delle Tartarughe is in Piazza Mattei, a small square a few minutes’ walk from the Portico d’Ottavia, on the edge of the Ghetto.
Stay in the middle of it all
Caesar’s Nest is a penthouse with a panoramic balcony in the heart of the Ghetto, less than a minute from the Portico d’Ottavia and two minutes from the Great Synagogue. The dome is visible from the windows and the balcony.